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Good job. Any thermal bridging since installation? They say don't stick stuff to external walls..!?

I think Oakwood Garden rooms showed they wire on the out side.

This answered every question I had. Thanks and great job!

This fuc***ing music on all these videos is destroying all the work done!

Hi, this maybe a silly question but where you have to leave 1meter gap from the bundary is this just to the nearest wall or does this include the roof which overhangs the side? Many thanks in advance

Hi where is the list of materials used. Just the joist supports

Who is Steve Convery mentioned in the video and does he have a channel or build blog?

Great video, is this also recommended for 1st and second floor bedrooms?

It doesn't seem like it's worth it but I think I'll need to live in the house through one winter to determine. I'm going to delay putting in flooring until next year (buying a 1900 Victorian terrace). This is a really excellent DIY video if I do decide it's needed and I might do it anyway if I need to replace the joists - thank you!

Good job!

Excellent vid ... thank-u!

Nicely explained, really competent analysis of interstitial condensation and well described. So many other diy dot and dabbers getting this wrong. Congratulations. (Ex architect and lecturer in construction technology)

Hi there. Amazing series. Do you have an overall of breakout costs?

Does it help to soundproof only the bedroom wall where I am sleeping? A company gave me £2000 quotation for 7.5cm sound proof wall.

The dents and chips add character ..

It seems you've defeated the purpose of the adhesive as you are simply gluing the plywood to the tape and not the joists. That joint is now relying on your fasteners and the strength of your tapes adhesive, the caulking is moot.

Question - for securing the Tyvek after stapling would gaffer tape be ok over the tyke tape?

Great video.

Great video series Ali. One thing I don't understand is, how did you determine the spacing between the plinths? Using span tables to determine the length/spacing for the joists makes sense, but since your joists are attached to suspended beams how did you determine the length/spacing/capacity of those beams (which determined your spacing of plinths)? Each beam is suspended/spaced itself and is taking the load of several joists at a time.

Excellent as always 👌 Thank you.

fab

good detailed video any more refurb videos ?

great video and well detailed , thanks

Why not screed?

Hi. Would you say foil backed plasterbourd be sufficient for the same use. I.e external inside wall?

Are you an INTP? :3

Pir is that foam board?

I have very much enjoyed your garden room series. Your detailed explanation is extremely helpful 💯 I am building a 8 metres by 6 metres garage/workshop so all your info has really helped me with making certain decisions.

Absolutely fantastic video. I’ve learnt so much in this video. I never knew that the vapour barrier goes on the warm side of the room, so you wouldn’t do, vapour onto brick then batten then pir. You would go, batten on brick first, then pir in between, then Vapor barrier. Such a brilliant video. This guy is fantastic. So classy and always happy to learn and teach and help along the way to the viewers. Thankyou for this video. Tom.

Hey, just to let you know, your website has been hacked I think? The cladding page takes me to loads of pop-ups on IOS! Fyi 😢

you should of put dpc trays belows cills

Well explained only I couldn’t see whereyou explain how you were able to span your roof joists 5m.

I’ve my bathroom sandwiched between two bedrooms on either side. Can’t do anything with the bathroom. I really want to sound proof but know that I’ll lose some space form both bedrooms. What’s the total thickness of the finished wall? Many 🙏

I wonder if you have done research on the feasibility of a Granny Annexe of the non permanent variety to avoid planning permission. Affectively the caravan rule

The BEST way to avoid condensation is having vents or open your windows a bit in the morning for couple hours to get some fresh air, and ignore all of these shenanigans with insulation and whatnot. Your only concern should be to stop the cold temperature outside getting into your house, ignore the condensation issues and just open your windows in the morning dont need too much, just a bit open to get some fresh air going. Heating bills will be up but a marginal 1% or 2% if you keep it on all day long but you wont have condensation and dont have to worry about any of these insulation vs condensation that nothing works other than fresh air.

thank you for the thorough video - going to attempt it myself now. Given the mention of expansion, would it be wise to leave a gap between the bottom of the feather boards and the gravel board for vertical expansion as well? I'm thinking using a small spacer or shim whilst installing to leave a few mm gap afterwards might be a good idea.

i have being watching all your videos while building my own, quick question is there any vents installed ?

Better using dense rockwool and soundblock plasterboard as it is WAY MORE EFFECTIVE, FACT. I've used both methods. My way is also cheaper too..... and faster.

Did you find that even with the walls proofed, that the sound carried through the floors too?

I'm a complete novice...what tool is best to easily cut the boards..brilliant video by the way very easy to follow ..thank you 😊

Why put a vapour barrier on PIR board? The aluminium foil covering the whole sheet is a vapour barrier.....

Does foam adhesive reduce air cavities behind the insulation board and thereby reduce amount of condensation/mould?

Wish i fpund this sooner spent ages reading all the regs etc and getting confused woth some of the minor points, which all wuld hae been clarified in a few mins had i wat hes this sooner! Great vid cheers

Need to know more about this 😮. Beats trying to do a 5 inch 35’x35’ slab with rebar by my lonesome right? **£Anyone know if this will work ok down on the panhandle? My home is about 15 miles north of the Pensacola area and I want to at least get a foundation started for a 35x35 wood workshop/billiards room I want to build. It’s mostly compacted sand around here, but a good amount normal grass that grows and it is not clay. One could possibly build an oversized flat concrete mold under it or is that even needed?

thanks so much Ali, great explanation, thanks for sharing

Any condensation problems a few years later?

Great video, thanks! Did you need to add any sort of vent or air admittance valve to the waste system?

Watching this for some ideas fir reroofing my modelling shed 😊

Hi could you use treated fence posts as floor joints

I have been researching on how to insulate my suspended timber floor for a while now. Each time I come across a new tutorial on youtube I learn something, but I also get confused. Now I have got so many questions! For example 1 arent the membranes (both the dm and the vl) supposed to be sealed all around the room? And where should they be sealed, exactly? On the plasterboard under the skirting board, or on the bare wall under the plasterboard itself? 2 isn't the air vent at the level of the joists making the insulation much less efficient? Cause this is exactly the same situation I have in my house, and after watching other videos I thought that the entire perimeter of the room (at leqst esternal sides) should be sealed. The air vent being in the middle of the way is clearly an impediment to this. I don't know if I am clear, but I hope someone would help me